Unveiling the Soul of Chandragiri: Odisha’s Mini-Tibet and a Living Heritage of Migration

Sravani Naraparaju
Aug 15
4 min read

Welcome back, dear readers!

Prepare to embark on an extraordinary journey as we unravel the awe-inspiring story of migration—a powerful force that weaves the rich, diverse threads of humanity into a vibrant, breathtaking tapestry. Imagine ancient customs blending seamlessly with new traditions, art forms bursting into life, cuisines tantalizingly merging, and belief systems intertwining in a dance of unity. Over centuries, these exchanges have not only enriched societies but ignited transformations, redefining identities and crafting hybrid cultural landscapes pulsating with energy and soul. In 1959, India witnessed this magic unfold, and today, we’re here to share the captivating tale of one such intangible heritage.

The Tibetan Exodus and the Birth of Chandragiri

Following the Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1950, over 150,000 Tibetans, guided by the luminous spiritual leadership of His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama, fled into exile. With Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru’s historic announcement in the Rajya Sabha granting asylum, approximately 120,000 refugees found a new home in India. These resilient souls are now scattered across Leh, Odisha, Himachal Pradesh, Arunachal Pradesh, Karnataka, Delhi, and beyond. Among these havens, Chandragiri in Odisha’s Gajapati District stands out—a settlement born in 1963, brimming with stories of hope and resilience.

Late P.M. Pandit Jawahar Lal Nehru welcoming the Tibetan refugees

Of the 37 settlements gifted by the Indian government, Chandragiri’s lofty plateau emerged as a beacon of hope, lovingly named “Phuntsokling” by its Tibetan inhabitants, meaning a land overflowing with bounty and happiness. Today, it is home to around 2,000 resilient souls, earning the nickname “Mini-Tibet of Odisha.” Beyond being a refuge, it testifies to their indomitable spirit. Their entrepreneurial flair shines through superior handwoven carpets, rare dog breeds traded with care, and lush guava crops that once crowned it the “Maize Bowl of Odisha.”

The Heartbeat of Jeerang Monastery

At the core of Chandragiri lies the Padmasambhava Monastery—also known as Jeerang Monastery—named after Acharya Padmasambhava, the 7th-century sage who carried Buddhism to Tibet. This majestic structure, the largest living monastery in Eastern India, serves as both a spiritual home and an academic haven for 200 devoted Buddhist monks. Its architectural splendor, blending spirituality with breathtaking design, is sure to leave you in awe.

Nestled in a lush valley just 4–5 km from Chandragiri town, the 10-acre Jeerang Monastery is a self-contained paradise. Feast your eyes on its five-story main monastery, meditation halls whispering peace, charming temples, an institute buzzing with learning, hostels alive with young monks, a library guarding ancient Buddhist scriptures, a canteen serving delectable momos, and cozy guest houses welcoming visitors. The site also boasts a majestic stupa, spinning prayer wheels, a statue-dotted pond, and more—a true spiritual wonderland!

Jeerang Monastery nestled in the hills of Chandragiri

Architectural Legacy: From Nalanda to Jeerang

The monastery’s design draws inspiration from the Atanpuri style of Nalanda, an ancient Buddhist university built between the 5th and 12th centuries. Nalanda set a gold standard with its two-to-three-story viharas, a towering 100–120-foot stupa, and brick-lime mastery, once home to 10,000 monks and scholars debating under open courtyards. Fast forward to 2010, when Jeerang, inaugurated by the Dalai Lama, reimagined this legacy with a stunning 70–75-foot, five-story marvel. It fuses Nalanda’s symmetry with Tibetan flair—tiered roofs gleaming with gilded eaves, arched wooden windows framing the hills, and vibrant murals of Padmasambhava that narrate ancient tales.

While Nalanda thrived with ingenious water channels, Jeerang nurtures 200 monks amidst hilly prayer flags and a tranquil pond, using Tibetan joinery to withstand Odisha’s monsoons. However, its deforestation contrasts with Nalanda’s eco-harmony, hinting at modern challenges.

A Walk Through Jeerang’s Splendor

Step through the ornate gates, and you’re greeted by a lobby wrapped in lush greenery—a warm embrace of nature! The main temple stands majestically ahead, flanked by two-story residential quarters for monks, painted white with striking red and blue ornamentation dancing along three sides. This tribute to Tibetan architecture features sloping roofs and intricate woodwork that tells stories of resilience.

Ahead looms the three-story main hall, a architectural masterpiece reached via a pillared verandah that stretches like an invitation. Its thatched roof, upheld by sculptures of mysterious animals, shelters walls, pillars, and ceilings alive with intricate paintings. Nature’s beauty, Buddha’s life journey, cosmic mandalas, and radiant deities are set against a white canvas with vermilion red, green, blue, and gold—echoing the five elements of earth, water, fire, air, and space in Tibetan cosmology. Spot mountains, animals, lotus blossoms, swirling clouds, cascading waterfalls, and the mythical phoenix and dragon—symbols of the universe’s complementary forces.

Inside the meditation hall, a towering 23-foot bronze Buddha presides, flanked by 17-foot statues of Avalokiteshvara and Padmasambhava. Their gold-toned murals weave mantras, myths, and spiritual wisdom into every corner.

The Sacred Stupa Complex

Beyond the Gompa, or main temple, lies a sacred journey—100 meters to the stupa complex! This walled sanctuary houses eight stupas in a circular embrace, with the tallest Stupa of Enlightenment at its heart, adorned with colorful prayer flags that whisper peace, wisdom, compassion, and strength. Tibetans believe these flags carry mantras on the wind, spreading goodwill across the land. This circle mirrors the Eight Great Events of Buddha’s life—prolonging his life by three months, turning the Dharma wheel in Varanasi, victory over Mara, miracles, the lotus blooming in Lumbini, taming the Nilgiri elephant, and parinirvana—each stupa uniquely decorated to reflect its story.

Within this sacred space, marvel at 3–4-foot prayer wheels under canopies and smaller ones scattered about, inscribed with “Om Mani Padme Hum” in red or gold, holding scrolled mantras crafted by Tibetan artisans. Spinning them clockwise, as the 200 monks and pilgrims do, releases blessings and purifies karma—a communal dance of faith and a personal path to peace.

A Lesson in Humanity

Jeerang isn’t just a feast for the eyes—it’s a spiritual compass for a wandering soul, a refreshing tale for eager ears, and a warm hug from a land far away. It reminds us of a simple, often-forgotten truth: beneath our languages, borders, clothes, and prayers, we’re human—brothers and sisters at our core. When we see the one across the line as our mirror, together we can craft a heaven right here, just like Chandragiri.