Belur Chennakeshava Temple : A melody etched in stone
- Sravani Naraparaju
- Dec 23, 2024
- 6 min read
Listed as a UNESCO world heritage site, Belur is an extraordinary example of Hoysala architecture. This early 12th Century construction royally sits on the banks of river Yagachi, which is 38km from Hassan, Karnataka. Belur was the erstwhile capital of the Hoysalas and referred to as Velapur, Velur and Belahur at different points in history.
The 900-year-old Chennakeshava Temple of Belur, is a place where wonder, beauty, awe, sculptural superiority and ingenuity. Built by three kings over a period of 103 years this temple is a melody sculpted in stone and is an epitome of Hoysala architecture of which little is known, discussed and appreciated.
Hoysala Vishnuvardhana: The visionary of Belur
The Hoysalas were primarily from a region called Malenadu in the Western Ghats, known for being well-versed in warfare techniques. They took advantage of the internal ongoing wars between the Chalukyas and the Kalachuri dynasty and took control of regions under present – day Karnataka. By the 13th century, their rule expanded to most parts of Karnataka, a few regions Tamil Nadu and some parts of western Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. The great kingdom of independent Hoysala was founded by Bittideva or Vishnuvardhana, who holds the credit for the downfall of the mighty Chalukyas. His victory over the Chola viceroy at Talakadu, concreted his rule over a substantial part of South India.
Vishnuvardhana marked this splendid victory by building the main temple of Vira Narayana Swami at Belur, a fact that inscriptions record. The magnificent Murti consecrated in its sanctum sanctorum is deservedly called Chennakeshava (Beautiful Keshava). Indeed, the Belur Temple is better known as the Chennakeshava Temple to this day. So enduring was its impact that people in that region are named after this deity variously as Chennakeshava, Chennayya, Chennigappa, etc. However, tradition holds that Vishnuvardhana built the temple in token of converting to the Sri Vaishnava tradition under the auspices of Ramanujacharya.
Layout of the Chennakeshava Temple : Entering into a labyrinth of marvel
The temple complex welcomes the visitor through a large gate known as the Rajagopura. The temple is enclosed in a stone compound wall. There are two entrance gates to the temple complex where the east gate is five storeyed in height. The main entrance which was destroyed during the Delhi Sultanate invasion is restored during the Vijayanagar reign.
While the bottom of the gopuram is constructed in stone and the upper part in brick and mortar. The façade is richly decorated with figures of gods and religious figures. The top of the gopuram is adorned with two cow horn shaped sculptures which are on either side of five golden kalashas or pots. As many Dravidian temple architecture, the gopuram is five storied about the entrance arch with decorative ornamentation on each pediment.
The entrance on the east is decorated with Makara Torana. The overhead panel on the main door depicts the ten avatars or forms of Lord Vishnu. On both sides of the gate are two huge structures of Sala killing the tiger, the state emblem of the Hoysalas.
Architecture of Chennakeshava Temple: A poem sculpted on stone
In the 12th century inscriptions, the main temple of the complex was known as Vijaya Narayana. Later queen Santala Devi ordered to build smaller temples next to it which were called Chennakesava. But over some time, the main temple is called Chennakesava, and the other smaller temples are called Chennigaraya temple. The expansion of the complex of the temple continued for over 100 years.
It is very interesting to note that a model of the main temple is constructed in the complex for around 27 years. Once the model was made, the main temple was built in a grand scale while keeping the smaller temple as a model. The temple construction took for over 103 years and three generations have undertaken the construction.
The Chennakesava Temple complex at Belur has 443.5 feet by 396 feet of the court. The temple complex is a walled compound that consists of different minor shrines and numerous Hindu temples inside. The main temple is built on a Jagati a platform, which is three feet high and has a Pradakshina Path for devotees. The star shaped platform is of 32 pointed in shape and is a unique feature found in Hoysala architecture. The temple has mixed elements of Nagara style of Architecture (North India) and Karnataka style architecture (South India). Soapstone which is also called as Chloritic Schist is used for construction. The stone is specifically chosen as it is famously known as an artist’s friend, as the artist could easily mold the stone as he desires.
The external façade has six panels which have different iconography of each panel. The lower two panels were carved with animals like elephants, horses or lions in a repeated pattern. It is interesting to note that no two animal figures are similar. The top two panels contain the royal symbol of Hoysala empire which is inspired from the motifs of an elephant, bull, horse, lion and a crocodile which can be seen on the carvings. The topmost panels have birds such as parrots and peacocks carved. The middle panels tell the stories of everyday scenes and stories of mythology. These sculptures are carved with such intricacy that facial features are portrayed distinctly and in minute detail. The top of this platform, portraits of men and women are carved in individual panel.
There are motifs of mythical characters such as gods, goddesses and angels. It is very interesting to note that there are several ‘Madanikas’ are carved which is the pose adorned by beautiful lady in different dancing as well as other poses. Some of them are: A lady admiring herself in the mirror, A monkey pulling the saree of a lady, Lady dressing her hair after the bath, Lady aiming an arrow, A lady in Tribhangi Mudra with her body bent in three places, Lady playing Rudra Veena, Lady looking at a lizard who is eyeing a fly sitting on jackfruit. In total one can see figures in dancing and singing position with over 620 hairstyles and facial symmetry that is termed as the golden rule. There are also many mythical characters carved into the stone. If one has a key eye, you can even catch a glimpse of an autograph left by the artist as a memoir.
The Sanctum Sanctorum: A Wonder within
Two dwarapalakas in exquisite detail and finesse welcomes the visitor into a myrrh of wonder and architectural marvel. The sanctum houses 48 pillars and ceilings, each unique and different from one another. Each pillar has a unique shape such as bells, flowers, umbrellas, stars and diamonds. The central four pillars deserve a mention as they feature madanikas, celestial damsels meticulously chiselled by skilled artists. These madanikas depict different poses, capturing the fascination of art enthusiasts and visitors, including the lady with a parrot and the huntress. It is believed that in the past these pillars rotated on their own axis with the help of a small ball bearing which was disrupted when the roof was damaged.
The ceiling was carved in step manner with intricate designs of animal symbols and small circular panels with portraits of animals and Hoysala symbols. The central ceiling is in the shape of an inverted lotus between two concentric circles. The central part of the circle is in the shape of an inverted Linga, with Narasimha carved on the base, and a lotus flower in the middle symbolic of Brahma. The Trinities are represented in a single stone through symbols, also called Trimurti Sangama Bhubaneshwari. The four iconic madanikas on each side strike a pose at four corners. If you look up, there are 48 stone carvings and pieces defying gravity.
The pillar of genius
While exiting the monument, you will see a pillar approximately 36 feet high and weighing 16,000 kg. It is a showstopper that defies the laws of physics. The pillar is not firmly rooted to the base nor supported from above or sideways. It stands on three sides, touching the ground, while the fourth side remains untouched. There is a gap through which you can pass a piece of paper or cloth.
Belur temple monuments have been on the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list since 2014. It was granted well-deserved recognition recently and now stands shoulder-to-shoulder with the other revered monuments of the world.
PS: This article does not do justice for the beauty the temple evades. Each piece of stone is like a melody carefully chiseled and given life. This is only an attempt to prompt the reader to make a visit to this marvel and experience the magic in person.
Comments