Sometimes in the momentum of our passing life, there comes a time which is so unexpected filled with chaos and peace laced together. A time where you become your true self and gain wisdom with the simplest conversations and ask questions to redeem our inner struggle. And then comes the question: What makes it the most extraordinary experience - space or memories? I would bet on the people you meet, your experience with the place, good conversations and the moments of pure joy and wisdom which are worth a lifetime. Today, I will be taking you down the memory lane where every passing event has been sculpted into the deepest parts of my heart and inspired me the most in various levels.
Rajasthan is well known for its havelis, palaces, food, music, camels and colour. It also reminds us of many historically rich cities like Jaipur – the pink city, Udaipur – City of lakes, Jaisalmer – Land of sand and Jodhpur – blue city. However, only handful must be aware of an amalgamation of few districts of Jhunjhunu, sikar and churu called Shekhawati which is known for its havelis and the rich history of the marwari traders. The earliest mentions of this region date back in the Rigveda and the Mahabharatha as the Matsya Kingdom hinting that the Vedas were supposedly originated from these very lands. However, the region obtained its glory during the rules of Shekhawat Dynasty which was founded in 1471 and are ruled until India’s independence in 1947.
However, the glory of the region in the form of grand havelis are attributed to the Marwari traders. During the period of British India these traders are settled near the coastal areas and built rich, extravagant havelis for their families and memorials for their ancestors in the region of shekhawathi with grandeur laced into artistic expression of wall paintings as a symbol to express their wealth and extravagance. From the turn of the 19th century till about 1822, a vast amount of trade was diverted through Shekhawati and more and more merchants got attracted to the region. Trade-in opium, cotton, and spices flourished. The merchant community that grew then is still a prominent class in Indian society today – the Marwaris. India’s richest industrialists of the century, such as the Birlas and Dalmia, are Marwaris. Today, the main trading and industrial houses of India have their roots in Shekhawati. It is said that at one point in time 80% of the tax collectors were paid by the Marwaris.
The Havelis of the Shekhawati are rich and are true to their meaning like its Persian origin which means ‘an enclosed space’. Unlike the Mughal havelis, the havelis of Shekhawati consist of two courtyards, one outer and one inner. It is interesting to note that the outer courtyard is used by the men to do their business and welcome the guests, while the inner courtyard is used by women. Both the courtyards are separated through mesh jali works successfully providing a veil to the domestic life of the haveli. This architectural feature mirrors the society and customs of the day representing the rigid, but ostentatious lifestyle of the people.
The havelis are entered through a massive arched gateway, protected by a solid wooden door (the number of lintels hanging from the door indicates the owner of the haveli: for instance, if there is one barrier it is built by the first son of the household so on and so forth). The larger ones however have up to four courtyards and are two storeys high and the windows are exquisitely latticed and carved. The facades, the gateways, the courtyard wall, the parapets and the ceilings were all covered with frescoes. The dominant colour used in the fresco like Lapis Lazuli and the Intricate wooden carvings with ornate iron and brass fittings demonstrate the owner’s wealth.
It is a feast to the eyes to look at these havelis and to hear to the whispering stories they hold.
In Shekhawati, frescoes were initially introduced by Shekhawat Rajputs in their forts and palaces. This region has been recognised as the “open art gallery of Rajasthan” having the largest concentration of frescoes in the world.
It is very interesting to note that the frescos and the havelis are built as a mimic to the rajputh palace constructions of Jaipur. It is interesting to note that the motifs in the first courtyard are mainly of mythological deities, animals, flowers and musical instruments which are mainly painted to appease the guest and create a welcoming gesture. On the contrary, the inner courtyard contains fresco paintings depicting havelis, palaces, mythological themes, local legends, animals, everyday lives, war, hunting and wrestling. These depictions become a window to the outside world for the confined women. Occasionally, glimpses of paintings with men at work is seen along with women doing domestic work or nurturing children as a reminder of her duties and worth of the patriarch family members. On the outside the structure becomes an open canvas with paintings of vehicles, British generals and women, animals and many more which becomes a time capsule of the era.
Taking a detour and coming back to my happy place, I was fortunate enough to live and work on one of the havelis which is restored and turned into a hotel called “The Le Prince Haveli”. It is at this place that I met travellers from across the globe, to sit under the moonlight, by the presence of the paintings to discuss about issues around the world. Some light conversations, some arguments, some questions, some answers, some celebrations, some painful stories have made me realise that we are all similar running a very similar race called life with identical obstacles and once in a while it is very important to stop and look around us to see that we are not alone. Sometimes we need to tend our own feelings before being forgotten like the havelis. I made some amazing friends for line in the trip along with finding answers to my troubling heart and learning new questions to ponder about. One of the conservations led me to question myself: What is the purpose of life?
In the quest to find my life’s purpose I believe it is my duty to protect, educate and tell the stories of these havelis through my voice and my work. These havelis which are abandoned only to be left guarded by a sole gatekeeper are crumbling and are being forgotten while their stories became a whisper barely heard, waiting to become someone else experiences before fading in time like these dying havelis.
P.S: This article is bringing back so many memories and I wanted to write about my trip and the wall painting restoration I was part of. I will do that soon, with a promise of a more personal encounter.
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